|
|
Almeria
car hire
Back to: Spain car hire
Almeria itineraries
ALMERIA The Spanish desert. This Andalusian province has an
incredible variety of scenery which makes it a paradise for off-road
riding. Both the coast and the interior will delight the traveller
and here we recommend two itineraries to really get to know this
large province. The first follows the coast, starting from the
emblematic village of Mojácar, crossing the Cabrera mountain
range before entering the Cabo de Gata Natural Park. The second
itinerary moves inland to explore the mountains and deserts of
Almería . After leaving the town of Nijar we cross the
mountains of Sierra Alhamilla, with great views of the Tabernas
desert and Los Filabres, and ascend to the Calar Alto observatory
and from there, to the town of Purchena.
ITINERARY 1 Al though the recommended route really begins in
Agua Amarga we have included Mojácar since it is well worth
a visit.
Between these two villages there are various coves which can
be reached by following short stretches of track. Alternatively
we can ascend these tracks to hidden villages although in most
cases we will have to return by the same route. Cabo de Gata Natural
Park has an area of 29.000 ha. and is home for a large number
of plant and animal species native to the area. It was declared
a Natural Park in 1986 and since its ecological balance is very
delicate the collection of any species of plant is prohibited.
The park's administrators have this to say to all-purpose vehicle
users: " The dunes and sandy areas, wetlands and mountainous
slopes of the park are not a test area for these kinds of vehicles,
which, like all others, are obliged to respect the rules while
using the authorized routes within the park". We leave Agua
Amarga and head for Venta del Pobre, setting the milometer at
0 opposite the hotel "Mi Kasa". After a little more
than 1 km. We turn left off the road and descend a dried-up river
bed which presents few problems other than a short stretch of
stone steps. We soon reach a track which we follow down to the
left to the cove of San Pedro. Along the way various old buildings
can be seen, such as a fortified house, a reminder of the days
when pirates used to attack the coastal villages. Lower down the
remains of an old windmill, complete with machinery, can be seen.
The small, peaceful cove is a perfect place for a relaxing swim.
We have to go back the way we came as far as the crossroads where
we first encountered the track. We go straight on until another
track which we follow to the left, passing through an open-cast
mine where the white of the earth and piles of mineral contrast
with the bright blue of the sky. We soon reach the village of
Fernán Pérez with its old aqueduct and some windmills.
We then follow the track to Caserío de Martínez
where we take a short asphalted stretch before reaching Cortijo
del Fraile in ruins. It was here that the events took place which
inspired García Lorca to write his famous " Bodas
de Sangre " ( " Blood Wedding " ). From here we
enter the mining zone of Rodalquilar. These gold and silver mines,
which were abandoned in 1966, brought wealth to the region for
centuries. A little before reaching the village we can see where
the precious metals were extracted. Below the mines is the Natural
Park Information Centre, which, besides selling gifts related
to the Park, has models of typical buildings and explains the
workings of windmills and other devices. Further down we can see
the old miners´houses, initially abandoned and later occupied
by squatters. From Rodalquilar we take the road to the coast as
far as Los Escullos where these is a ruined castle, that of San
Felipe, built in the eighteenth century by order of Carlos III
to defend the coast. Here we can find two of the most attractive
and well-cared for beaches in the whole park: del Esparto or Piedra
Galera and del Arco. Here we take the track parallel to the coast
which is in good condition until the mid-way point. From here
until San José the track is only recommended for experts
since it is very narrow with a vertical drop on one side as well
as boulders and the possibility of landslides.
The last stretch must be descended in first gear until we reach
a main track close to San José. Once in the village we
follow the track to some beautiful beaches such as Los Genoveses
and Monsul. Beyond the latter, the track is closed to traffic
so if we want to visit the salt flats we will have to go on foot.
We can also go up to Torre de Vela Blanca with good views of the
salt flats and the cape of Cabo de Gata. ITINERARY 2 This route,
starting in Níjar, gives us the opportunity to explore
two of the most important mountainous zones of the interior, Sierra
Alhamilla and Los Filabres, as well as the desolate desert landscape
of Tabernas between the two mountain ranges. Níjar has
a well preserved old quarter with traditional Andalusian architecture.
The most important tourist attraction is probably the church of
Santa María de la Asunción, built in the 16 Th.
century and for its handicrafts, especially rugs and pottery with
typical decorations dating from Moorish times. Leaving Níjar
we follow a narrow road up towards the village of Huebro and take
a track to the right before reaching the village. This track takes
us into Sierra Alhamilla. To our left is a river bed as well as
farmhouses and well maintained vegetable patches. If we have time
we can go up to Guebro and see where a small stream comes bubbling
out of the rock and which is still used for irrigation.
The village also has the remains of an Arab Castle and a large
pond where you can have a refreshing swim. From the small town
square there are marvellous views of the Natural Park. Back once
again on the track we start to go up into Sierra Alhamilla, passing
a farmhouse on our right after a few kilometres. Most of the vegetation
consists of reforested pines although in the river beds there
are other species as well as scrub in the highest zones. On reaching
the crest we turn left towards the south while the track to the
right continues to the village of Turrillas, an old mining centre,
the track goes along the crest offering excellent views to the
right, the Tabernas desert and the almost lunar landscape of Los
Filambres, and to the left, on a clear day we can see the Mediterranean
and Cabo de Gata. Finally, after a good few kilometres, the track
finishes next to a telephone booster station where it turns into
a narrow asphalted road which descends steeply to the Tabernas
desert. Soon we can see " Mini Hollywood ", one of the
Wild West towns built in the desert due to the similarity of the
landscape to that of Arizona. A good number of westerns were filmed
here during the late 1960 s ( " Spagetti Westerns "
) including " The good, the bad and the ugly ". When
filming was abandoned in the mid 1970s the towns became ghost
towns although they were later restored as tourist attractions,
with " shoot-outs " etc. From the " Mini Hollywood
" car park we take the N-340 road towards Almería
but soon turn off to go down to the rambla de Tabernas, with its
spectacular scenary.
We continue northwards being careful to keep to the main rambla
as the lateral ramblas are dead-ends. The scenery here is the
most similar in all Europe to the pre-Saharan areas of North Africa
with heavily eroded hills and here and there an oasis with palm
trees and prickly pears. There are also some uninhabited farmhouses.
Soon after passing a tunnel on the right, we can see the ruins
of Tabernas castle and the rambla begins to widen with numerous
paths to farmhouses. Great care should be taken here, since, although
the rambla is normally completely dry, sudden torrential rain
can result in flash floods. Consequently, if there is the chance
of rain this stretch should be avoided and we should stay on the
N-340. The track through the rambla eventually reaches an asphalted
road which we follow to the left as far as the village of Castro
de Filabres. Although it is possible to cross the road and follow
the ramble towards the village it is a complicated route involving
going through a gate which way be padlocked. In this zone various
buildings or castros made of stones can be seen although most
are abandoned. These castros give their names to many of the villages
and are very similar to those to be found in the north of Spain.
Just before Castro de Filambres we take a track signposted to
Olula de Castro which soon appears amongst the mountains, from
here a short stretch of track and another of asphalt takes us
up to the astronomic observatory of Calar Alto, constructed thanks
to German investment, and one of the best in Europe. It was built
here due to the clarity of the skies in this part of Almería.
From the observatory to the village of Purchena in the Macael
region in the north of the province is nearly 50 km of track,
generally in good condition and presenting few problems. We pass
close to the mountain of Tetica de Bacares, named for its similarity
to a woman's breast. This stretch can be shortened by descending
a track towards Velefique or Senes and then taking the road to
Tabernas. If we continue we enter the region of Macael which is
known internationally for its high quality marble from the numerous
quarries in this part of Sierra de Filambres. Marble is the main
source of wealth here and shortly before entering Purchena we
can see large slabs of marble used to protect the track.
|
|
menu
|
|
